Best Chicken Run Fencing and Netting (2026): Protect Your Flock
Find the best chicken run fencing and hawk netting for 2026. We compare hardware cloth, welded wire, electric netting, and overhead protection options.
The right fencing is the difference between a safe flock and a devastating predator attack. Chicken wire might seem like the obvious choice, but here's the truth: it keeps chickens in but won't keep most predators out. Raccoons tear through it, dogs push through it, and hawks fly right over it. You need something better. Here's a complete guide to choosing the right fencing and netting for your chicken run.
Our top pick for run walls: 1/2-inch Hardware Cloth — The gold standard for predator-proof chicken runs. Nothing short of a bear is getting through 19-gauge galvanized hardware cloth.
What You'll Learn
- •Why Chicken Wire Isn't Enough
- •Best Fencing for Chicken Run Walls
- •Best Overhead Netting for Hawk Protection
- •Best Electric Poultry Netting
- •How to Predator-Proof the Bottom of Your Run
- •Fencing Comparison: Which Type Is Right for You?
- •Installation Tips
- •Frequently Asked Questions
Why Chicken Wire Isn't Enough
This is one of the most important things new chicken keepers need to understand. "Chicken wire" is one of the most misleading product names in existence.
Standard chicken wire (also called poultry netting) is thin, lightweight hexagonal mesh. It does a fine job keeping chickens contained, but it fails against predators:
- •Raccoons can reach through the gaps and pull chickens against the wire, or rip the wire apart entirely
- •Dogs and coyotes can push through or tear standard chicken wire
- •Weasels and rats fit right through the 1-inch hexagonal openings
- •Snakes pass through easily
- •Hawks obviously fly over any wall-only fencing
Chicken wire has its uses (temporary barriers, garden protection, lightweight partitions), but it should never be your primary predator defense. For a deeper look at the threats your flock faces, check out our complete predator protection guide.
Best Fencing for Chicken Run Walls
Hardware Cloth (Best Overall)
1/2-inch Galvanized Hardware Cloth — $50 to $90 per 100 sq ft roll
Hardware cloth is the single best material for securing a chicken run. It's welded wire mesh, typically 19-gauge galvanized steel, with 1/2-inch openings that are too small for predator paws, snakes, or rodents to get through.
Why it's the best:
- •Raccoon-proof (they can't reach through or tear it)
- •Keeps out weasels, rats, snakes, and mice
- •Extremely durable and rust-resistant when galvanized
- •Available in various widths (24", 36", 48")
- •Lasts 10 to 15+ years
Drawbacks:
- •Most expensive fencing option
- •Harder to work with (need tin snips and gloves)
- •Heavier than other options
- •Sharp cut edges can injure you during installation
Best for: The coop itself (windows, vents, doors) and high-priority sections of the run where predator pressure is highest. If budget allows, use it for the entire run.
Welded Wire Fencing (Best Budget Alternative)
14-gauge Welded Wire Fencing — $30 to $60 per 50 ft roll
If hardware cloth is too expensive for your entire run, welded wire fencing (typically 2x4-inch or 1x2-inch openings) is a solid compromise. The heavier gauge wire is strong enough to resist dogs, coyotes, and most raccoon attacks.
Why it works:
- •Much cheaper per square foot than hardware cloth
- •Strong enough to stop most large predators
- •Easy to work with and attach to posts
- •Good for large runs where hardware cloth would cost a fortune
Drawbacks:
- •The larger openings (especially 2x4-inch) won't stop weasels, snakes, or reaching raccoon paws
- •Consider lining the bottom 2 feet with hardware cloth for extra protection
- •Not as secure as full hardware cloth coverage
Best for: Large run perimeters where you want strength on a budget. Combine with a hardware cloth apron at ground level for the best protection-to-cost ratio.
Chain Link Fencing (Good for Large Areas)
If you're fencing a very large area (100+ square feet), chain link provides excellent strength and durability. It stops dogs, coyotes, and other large predators. The downside is the openings are large enough for raccoon paws and small predators to get through, so you'll want to line the bottom section with hardware cloth.
Chain link is often cheaper per foot than other options when you're covering big areas, and it lasts decades. Many keepers buy used chain link from demolition sites or Craigslist for significant savings.
Best Overhead Netting for Hawk Protection
Hawks are the number one daytime predator for free-range and open-run chickens. Overhead netting is the most effective defense.
Heavy-Duty Poultry Netting
Heavy-Duty Bird Netting — $25 to $60 depending on size
Polypropylene or nylon bird netting stretched over your run creates an effective hawk barrier. Look for netting with 2-inch mesh or smaller to prevent hawks from pushing through.
Pros:
- •Affordable way to cover large areas
- •Lightweight and easy to install over existing runs
- •UV-resistant options last 3 to 5 years
- •Blocks hawks, owls, and other aerial predators
Cons:
- •Can sag under snow or heavy rain (needs support in the middle for spans over 10 feet)
- •Small songbirds occasionally get tangled
- •Cheaper versions degrade in UV light within 1 to 2 years
- •Won't stop a determined climbing predator
Installation tip: Run a support wire or rope across the middle of your run at a higher point than the edges, creating a peaked tent shape. This prevents sagging and sheds rain and snow. PVC hoops also work well as a netting frame.
Welded Wire Overhead (Most Durable)
For permanent overhead protection that'll never sag or deteriorate, use welded wire fencing across the top of your run. It's heavier and more expensive, but it lasts indefinitely and doubles as protection against climbing predators like raccoons and opossums.
This works best on smaller runs (under 100 square feet) where the weight is manageable. For larger areas, netting with wire support is more practical.
Best Electric Poultry Netting
Electric netting is the top choice for keepers who want flexible, portable fencing that deters ground predators on contact.
Premier 1 PoultryNet
Premier 1 PoultryNet — $130 to $180 per 164 ft roll
Premier 1 is the most recommended electric poultry netting brand in the backyard chicken community, and for good reason. Their PoultryNet is purpose-built for containing chickens while keeping predators out.
Why it's the best electric option:
- •48 inches tall (keeps flighty breeds contained)
- •Electrified horizontal strands deter foxes, coyotes, dogs, and raccoons on contact
- •Portable with built-in posts (move it to fresh ground as needed)
- •Easy to set up and reconfigure
- •Double-spiked posts hold firm in most soil types
What you also need:
- •A fence energizer (solar or plug-in, $80 to $150 extra)
- •Ground rods for the energizer
Drawbacks:
- •Significant upfront cost (netting + energizer)
- •Requires a power source (solar works for most setups)
- •Vegetation touching the bottom wire shorts the fence and reduces effectiveness (keep grass trimmed)
- •Won't stop aerial predators (you still need overhead protection)
- •Can injure or kill small animals that get tangled
Best for: Free-range setups where you want a movable perimeter, rotational grazing, or areas where permanent fencing isn't practical. Also excellent as a secondary perimeter around a permanent run.
For a full guide on managing free-range safety, see our free-range chickens guide.
How to Predator-Proof the Bottom of Your Run
Many predators dig. Foxes, dogs, raccoons, and weasels will all try to tunnel under your fencing. There are two main approaches to stopping them:
Hardware Cloth Apron
The most popular method. Lay a 12 to 18-inch strip of hardware cloth flat on the ground along the outside perimeter of your run, attached to the bottom of the fence. Cover it with soil or mulch. When a predator tries to dig at the fence line, it hits the buried apron and can't get through.
This is easier to install than burying fencing vertically and works just as well. The apron doesn't need to be deep since digging predators start at the fence base and go straight down, not 18 inches away and then under.
Buried Fencing
Alternatively, bury your fencing 6 to 12 inches deep along the perimeter. This takes more labor but creates a clean look and won't be exposed by erosion over time.
Either method works. The apron approach is faster and easier for most backyard setups.
Fencing Comparison: Which Type Is Right for You?
Small permanent run (under 100 sq ft): Use 1/2-inch hardware cloth for walls and top. This is the most secure setup possible. Yes, it costs more, but for a small area the total cost is manageable ($150 to $300 in materials). Your birds will be safe from virtually every predator.
Medium permanent run (100 to 300 sq ft): Use welded wire for the walls with hardware cloth lining on the bottom 2 feet. Add overhead bird netting with wire support. Use a hardware cloth apron around the base. This balances cost and security well.
Large permanent run (300+ sq ft): Chain link or welded wire for walls, bird netting overhead with support wires, hardware cloth apron at the base. Line the coop section and door areas with hardware cloth for extra security where it matters most.
Free-range perimeter: Electric poultry netting (Premier 1 PoultryNet) with a solar energizer. Add overhead netting or accept the hawk risk with natural cover, roosters, and supervision.
Budget setup: Welded wire walls, deer netting overhead, and a buried wire apron. Not perfect, but significantly better than chicken wire alone. Upgrade sections with hardware cloth as budget allows.
Installation Tips
Use the right fasteners. Fencing staples for wood posts, zip ties or hog rings for connecting panels, and self-tapping screws with fender washers for attaching hardware cloth to framing.
Wear gloves. Cut hardware cloth edges are razor sharp. Leather work gloves are a must during installation.
Overlap seams. Where two pieces of fencing meet, overlap by at least 2 inches and secure with hog rings or zip ties every 4 to 6 inches. Gaps at seams are an invitation for weasels and snakes.
Check for gaps at the ground. Walk the entire perimeter and look for spots where the fencing doesn't sit flush with the ground. Fill gaps with dirt, rocks, or short sections of hardware cloth. Even a 2-inch gap at ground level lets weasels in.
Plan for a human-sized door. You need to get in and out easily for cleaning, egg collecting, and coop maintenance. A full-size door with a secure latch is worth building right the first time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is hardware cloth or chicken wire better for a chicken run?
Hardware cloth is far superior for predator protection. Chicken wire has openings large enough for raccoon paws, weasels, and snakes to get through, and it's thin enough for dogs to tear apart. Hardware cloth with 1/2-inch openings stops virtually all predators. Use chicken wire only for temporary partitions or situations where predator risk is very low.
How tall should a chicken run fence be?
Four feet is the minimum for heavy breeds like Buff Orpingtons and Wyandottes that don't fly much. Six feet is better for lighter, flightier breeds like Leghorns. If your run has overhead netting, fence height matters less since birds can't fly out regardless. For runs without a roof, 6 feet with an inward-angled top section keeps most breeds contained.
Does electric poultry netting really work?
Yes, it's highly effective against ground predators when properly installed and energized. Foxes, coyotes, raccoons, and dogs all learn to avoid electric netting after one or two shocks. The key is maintaining the fence: keep vegetation trimmed away from the bottom wire, make sure your energizer is working, and check for shorts regularly. It won't stop aerial predators, so overhead protection is still needed.
How do I keep hawks away from my chickens?
Overhead netting is the most reliable solution. Cover your run with bird netting or welded wire. For free-range birds, provide natural cover (bushes, trees, shelters), keep a rooster who'll sound hawk alarms, and consider a livestock guardian dog. Shiny deterrents (CDs, reflective tape) and fake owl decoys work temporarily but hawks adapt to them quickly.
How deep should I bury chicken run fencing?
You don't necessarily need to bury it at all. A hardware cloth apron laid flat on the ground extending 12 to 18 inches outward from the fence base (covered with soil or mulch) is just as effective and much easier to install. If you prefer burying, 6 to 12 inches deep along the fence line will deter most digging predators.
Good fencing is an investment that pays off every night your flock sleeps safely. Start with the highest-priority areas (coop openings and the most vulnerable sections of your run) and upgrade over time. For more on building a secure setup from scratch, check out our complete guide to building a chicken coop.